Hair Colour
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02.06.2021
How to Lighten Hair Without Bleach
By: Zara Kenyon & Anette Svensson
In the quest for blonde hair, there's one thing that may be holding your clients back: bleaching. The fear of bleach damage has seen a host of would-be blondes compromising their hair goals to avoid breakage. But, did you know? There are ways your client can go all blonde without using any bleach. Whether they're craving just a touch of lightness or a full-blonde transformation, your service menu can cater to every look.
So, let's explore how to lighten virgin hair without bleach – even dark hair! – plus a series of services that harness lightener while minimising damage.
Discover No-Bleach Blondes With Koleston Perfect
Want blonde hair without the bleach? Enter the Koleston Perfect Special Blondes palette; a collection of high-lift colours that combine lightening and toning powers in a single step. With 11 permanent hair colour hues to choose – from golden to platinum blondes – the palette is perfectly varied, giving you access to a range of natural-looking blonde shades that work on all base hues.
In fact, even darker hair can be brightened with this alternative to bleach, allowing your client to unlock subtle highlights, balayage, ombre looks, and more, without the need for pre-lightening. You'll know you're working with a Special Blonde shade if the hair colour is numbered 12 before the stroke. Not only does it make achieving blonde hues simple, but it also saves time for your client with a one-step process.
For the ideal consistency and results, mix shades with Welloxon Perfect. Just make sure you change the mixing ratio from 1:1 (used for traditional Koleston Perfect shades) to 1:2. You can lift natural hair up to three levels lighter with a 9% developer, or achieve up to five levels of lift with a 12% developer. You're also able to combine mix tones with Special Blonde shades to create truly bespoke colours. Adding other blondes from the Koleston Perfect collection lets you counteract unwanted tones (like excess warmth) or achieve a more precise match for your client's hair goals.
Once you've mixed up their dream hue, apply in their chosen technique and allow colour to develop for up to 50-60 minutes. Here are just some of the services you can offer clients for a single-process, no-bleach blonde...
So, here they are – three bleach-free techniques for creating a lift on virgin locks – plus one bonus tip for when you’re working with previously colored hair. Get the lightening lowdown…
1. For a Soft, Subtle Lift: Demi-Permanent Color Touch
For clients who want the most delicate lift to brighten brunette locks, use demi-permanent Color Touch; an ammonia-free formula that gently enhances strands. Perfect for adding sun-kissed highlights that lightly contrast against the base, it will create the kind of ‘blink and you’ll miss them’ ribbons that shimmer under the light. We recommend this technique for clients who haven’t lightened their hair before, feel nervous about making the switch, but are looking for a touch of volume-boosting dimension. Just make sure to pick a target shade that’s lighter than their natural hue, then mix with Color Touch Emulsion 4% (13 volume) for up to two levels of lift. This is a look that will demand low maintenance as the re-growth will be very soft.
2. For Brighter Lightening: Permanent Illumina Color or Koleston Perfect
Demi-permanent colour is ideal for clients who crave a low-commitment shade, but if they want their dream hue to stick around, they should be trying a permanent haircolour product. Not only does this offer longer-lasting colour, but it also creates a more noticeable lift. It won’t lighten to the same degree as Blondor, but it will create some beautiful "bronde" tones throughout the brunette locks. The trick is to choose the right product first. We have two permanent formulas in the Wella Professionals colour portfolio: glow-boosting Illumina Color and pure-pigment Koleston Perfect. Illumina lends a sheer yet concentrated result that plays up the light reflections in your client’s hair. Meanwhile, Koleston Perfect results in an intense, saturated finish, with up to 100% grey coverage. Once you’ve picked which product suits your client’s desired look, mix in a 1:1 ratio with Welloxon Perfect Creme Developer. Choose 6% (20 volume) for up to one level of lift, 9% (30 volume) for up to two levels, and 12% (40 volume) for up to three levels. Apply root to tip in foils or with a hand-painting, balayage technique. For an even more expressive result, you can also create full head colour using a first time application technique.
3. For Turning Brown Hair Blonde: Koleston Perfect Special Blondes
Turning brown hair blonde without bleach may sound like a monumental challenge, but thanks to Koleston Perfect’s Special Blondes portfolio, the process can be done. The 11 blonde hues give you lifting and toning in a single step, so you can lift brunette hair up to even platinum shades – without the need for a pre-lightener. As with traditional Koleston Perfect shades, you still need to use the Welloxon Perfect developer to lighten. However, the ratio changes from 1:1 to 1:2 for a Special Blonde. Meanwhile, the achievable lift increases, with 9% (30 volume) developer offering up to three levels, and 12% (40 volume) taking brunette hair between four and five levels brighter. Choose your Special Blonde shades carefully, opting for 12/03 or 12/07 for a caramel blonde, and 12/11 or 12/89 for ash blonde highlights.
4 Special Blonde Formulas to Try
Instagram is full of Special Blonde looks, perfected by salon professionals. Here are some of our favorite examples of zero-bleach brightening with Koleston Perfect:
Bleach-Free Caramel Curls
Adding caramel tones to dark brown curls without a hair lightener? It’s possible. Brad Thomas created these dreamy coils using little more than Koleston Perfect Special Blonde 12/1 + 9% (30 volume).
Bleach-Free Balayage
When applied in freehand strokes through the mid-lengths and ends of your client’s brunette hair, Koleston Perfect 12/0 + 12% (40 volume) will create the prettiest bronde balayage.
Bleach-Free Ombre
This dark-to-light graduation was perfected with Koleston Perfect 12/61 + 9% (30 volume), swept from the mid-lengths down to the tips in one even motion.
Bleach-Free Beige Blonde
Here’s proof that Special Blonde shades can take locks extra-light. There’s no pre-lightener in this beige blonde hue; just Koleston Perfect 12/96, which was rinsed, neutralised, then followed up with a toner.
4. For Lightening Coloured Hair: BlondorPlex
The techniques above are designed for lightening hair that has never been coloured before. But what do you do if your client’s hair still has remnants of a previous toner or lightener? Using a tint will not be sufficient if your client has previously coloured hair. If you want to reduce oxidative colour depth and tone, while creating a lift in the hair, we recommend using Blondor on your clients. If your client is wary because they fear damage, there’s an easy workaround. Try BlondorPlex, which is a hair lightener-meets-bond strengthener. We’ve infused it with our WellaPlex No.1 Bond Maker, which strengthens the internal hair bonds during the lifting process. You can use it for balayage, highlights, ombre or all-over colouring, and it will give your clients up to 97% less breakage. Just make sure you rinse with WellaPlex No.2 Bond Stabilizer once the colour has developed. Then, ensure clients keep up a consistent hair care routine. The ColorMotion+ collection includes everything they need for vibrant colour and enhanced condition. If they only try three products, suggest they use the Color Protection Shampoo and the Color Protection Conditioner, followed by the Structure+ Mask, as a weekly treatment.
