Hair Colour
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13.10.2019
Your Guide to Wella’s Hair Color Charts
Colour is at the core of Wella Professionals: the No. 1 Salon Colour Brand in the World*. We understand that colour is the most creative expression for a hairdresser, which requires precision and skill.
While we can't reveal every secret of the trade, we’re offering a deeper look into how Wella colour charts can elevate your colour techniques. With our guide, refresh your approach to choosing the right shades and understand how to match clients to colours to enhance their unique features and deliver stunning results.
So, if you're seeking a quick refresher on which colours suit which clients best, read on for insights on maximising the colour chart. It’s an opportunity to fine-tune your craft and explore how to help clients preview a shade before fully committing.
And, of course, don’t forget to stock up on top-tier colour protection products to keep your clients’ shades looking vibrant. From colour-protecting shampoos to conditioning mousses and colour-refresh conditioners, browse our hair colour protection and care products.
*Based on Wella Master Brand USD sales on the 2022 Salon Hair Care Study for the hair colouring products category published by Kline.
1. The Colour Theory
To predict the outcome of every colour transformation, you rely on a simple equation:
Hair’s starting point + colour chosen = end result
The 'colour chosen' is the desired hue, while the 'starting point' is a combination of the client's hair history and underlying pigment. Let’s break each down:
Hair History
As a colourist, you assess the processes the hair has already undergone. Has it been coloured before? When and with what products? Details about your client’s styling routine and lifestyle, such as frequent swimming, can influence the formulas that will work best and help you determine if the hair is in good condition for a lightener.
Underlying pigment
When colouring hair—especially with a lightener like Blondor, is used – some of the underlying pigments in your hair may be exposed. some of the hair’s underlying pigments are exposed. Understanding this helps you decide whether to work with the existing pigment or neutralise it to achieve the perfect shade.
2. The Lightening Curve
The Lightening Curve is a visual guide for colourists to determine the ideal shade based on the underlying pigment in their client’s hair. It shows the hair’s tonal shifts as it lightens, providing a framework to select colours that enhance or correct these tones.
Example:
If your client has a natural deep brunette base, such as a 3/, and they’re looking to add subtle highlights, you’d lift sections of their hair to a 6/.
This process brightens the underlying pigment and creates a beautiful foundation for a deep caramel toner.
On the other hand, if they have a natural golden level 8/ but are dreaming of a platinum look, you’d need to lift their hair to a very pale yellow, around a level 10/.
This lightened base can then be toned to neutralise any remaining yellow, achieving the desired platinum finish. And with that, we move on to the next crucial step…
3. The Colour Circle
While the Lightening Curve offers insight into hair depth and shade, the Colour Circle is a tool for toning and correcting. Based on colour theory, it helps you select the toner needed to balance tones. Colours opposite each other on the wheel neutralise each other, while adjacent colours combine to create new hues.
Example:
if your client’s blonde hair has yellow, warm undertones but they’re after a cool, icy finish, you’d use the Colour Circle to find the colour opposite yellow—purple.
By adding a touch of violet to your formula, you can counteract those yellow tones.
A small amount of violet is all it takes for a subtle colour correction that shifts the tone toward a cooler, more refined blonde.
4. The Numbering System
With an understanding of the Lightening Curve and Colour Circle, it’s time to look at Wella’s universal numbering system for hair colour formulas. This system, used across all Wella colour products - from Koleston Perfect's permanent colours to the demi-permanent Color Touch- ensures consistency.
Each number in the system is divided by a stroke: the number before indicates the depth (how light or dark the hair is), while the number after denotes tone (what colour you’ll see).
For example, to achieve the look below, you may reach a depth of 4/, 5/, or 6/ then add the tone of a red-violet /5 resulting in a rich, radiant finish, depending on the undertones. This system lets you precisely match the shade number to achieve flawless results.
Image Credit: @cassandra_foehr
5. The Best Colour Curating Tools
Colourists have various tools to find the perfect blend for each client. A traditional colour chart or hair swatch book is valuable during consultations. But there’s also the digital tools as the Wella Digital Shade Chart, available via Wella App for iPhones and Android devices. This tool provides every shade available and offers a realistic hair simulation in different lighting, giving you and your clients a preview of their new colour.
